We've all had economic difficulties. And sometimes, the "professional" advice is not what it is cracked up to be. For instance, when you clean up your credit and get off negative items, the offending creditors can (and do) relist them a month later.
Then, you can get really screwed up things going on in your life. Take this scenario:
I've owned a 95 Honda Civic since it was new. Last August, I needed a new head gasket. It was the first major repair I'd ever had that wasn't anticipated. A few weeks later, the water pump went. And this time, I authorized a new timing chain so as to not have to pay that labor cost a year later. I thought I was out of the woods.
Then a hose went. How could the mechanic do all that other work and let the hoses go? So, I got all new hoses from another place and had the thermostat replaced. And then, the car ran hot AGAIN!
Now the mechanic says it was a bad switch that turns the blower motor off and on. He replaces it. A week later, the car runs hot AGAIN. I took it to another mechanic who tested the car. It didn't run hot and the pressure was better than needed when tested.
When I start the car after it's sat for a day or so, it runs like crap. It misses and the whole car vibrates until you give it some gas. So, I'm thinking condensation on the spark plugs. Then a while ago I'm sitting at the bank with the car running. The radio's off, no AC or heater running. I keep hearing a noise near the firewall. It sounds like water being poured from one container to another. So, now I'm thinking that something is amiss in the heater core. Okay...
With almost $2700 in repairs since August, it would be an absolute waste of money to junk the car, selling it for less than the repairs - unless it quits running hot magically. I don't have a down payment. My money is tied up in that POS. If I sell and buy another junker, hoping for a six month run while I save for a down payment, the junker will most likely break down.
The wisdom of financial gurus is to buy yourself a POS and save for a few months. But, I wonder what they would advise in this scenario. Either way, I did it to myself trying to get a few more months out of a car that was fairly dependable until the first time it ran hot. So, what would you do?
It sounds as if the vehicle (95 Honda Civic) has served you well until recently. And the problem seems to be in the motor since it is over heating. Not knowing if it just lost the water and you caught it in time to avoid any warping of the block or head, as opposed to the thing getting really hot, like sizzling, to cause the distortions, I say replace the gaskets and the hoses.
Caveat: this is my assuming the former in that you caught the overheating soon enough not to have the major part(s) ditortion. So, my err would be if this is not the case.
Hondas, like Toyotas are very resiliant. Slight warping can be dealt with by replacing the gaskes. But what are the miles on it?
If they are up to 200,000, then fix it. The cost of the repair will get you another 100,000. Compare that cost/benefit analysis to the price of a new or newer used car.
EDIT: Last night I was not able to finish this post at this point. Something occurred with my computer, or the board. Also, the part that did post listed me as a Guest.
Continuing:
I have a similar situation with a 1995 Toyota Corolla. But my deliema lies in replacing the struts. They are long gone in operational terms.
The vehicle has over 189,000 miles on it, mostly highway miles. Each time I had the timing belt replaced, I had the shop replace the water pump and the front oil seal. Tho, nothing was wrong with them, I, like Enforcer, did not wish to pay for that labor later on, and these items, new, has a greater piece of mind accompanying.
Well, so about 2 years ago, the water pump goes out and is leaking coolant. But I discover this 3 blocks from the shed. I get it home, with the last 1/2 block being rolled over as I had cut the engine off as the temp went up.
The shop that I had emphatically been loyal to, had closed. The man who had owned that shop and done the work on my car for all those years, referred me to another shop that he "trusted". He had closed the shop due to his wife having some problems during her pregnancy with their first child, and the man got a well paying job as mechanic at one of the state prisons in the area. He had no medical insurance to rely on, so, upon first hearing about the malady of the health problem, I passed some cash to him, aside from the repair bill. This was a long time trusted friend--I had even done business there when his father owned the shop.
This other shop fixed my problem and did the oil seal and timing belt, replacing all the belts too. But this shop saved all the old parts for me. As I looked at the old leaking water pump, and the old oil seal, they looked rather 'old'.
Whan I had the owner of this newly visited shop (by me, on referral)look at the parts, he told me that, "they had lasted a long time, they are the originals." He also confirmed this to me by pointing out certain words and marks on both that supported his statement. I then contacted my local Toyota dealer's parts dept, and they confirmed what the man who had done the current repair said.
Bear in mind, that in neither of these locations had I mentioned the prior requests of replacement of these parts from the original 'trusted friend' shop.
Bottom line, over the years I had paid for three water pumps and 3 oil seals + labor, that I did not get. I did get the timing belts!
So, back to the struts--It costs around $500.00 to replace those, labor and all. I recently watched the mechanic from the school run a compression check on all the holes--they were a consistent 150 lbs.
And if I want it to 'freight' all I do is mash the gas.
I truly believe that the car has 100,000 + miles left on the motor and transaxle (I had the axle joints replaced at 156,000 miles along with the brake pads.)
So, if $500.00 for more stability is spent, for 100,000 miles of safer service, I'm fixing it. A new Corolla would eat up $500.00 in the first payment + insurance. With the former, I keep myself out of the additional debt.
There's my reasoning, but your car has a different problem and possibly a different solution.
And this--if you do get the gaskets replaced, do not neglect to change the oil and filter when the gaskets are replaced, and each week, do the same for two weeks. Any coolant that may have gotten in the crankcase should be gone with these two changes.
Cordially
CDJ _________________ A ship in a harbor is safe, but that is not what they are made for.
As I told you, common wisdom is that you fix the car and hope it lasts. But, maybe I didn't make myself clear.
Since August of 2006, the head gasket has been replaced, heads reworked in a machine shop, water pump replaced, oil seal replaced, timing chain replaced, new radiator, FIVE new thermostats (to date), all new hoses, and the switch on the blower motor has been replaced. And no, it was never allowed to get hot and left running for more than the few minutes it took to pull over and shut it off.
Currently, there is no leaking (just had a pressure test) and there is no anti-freeze in the oil. But, the piece of junk still runs hot. BTW, I have 158,000 miles on this car and have kept up the maintenance religiously since it was new.
Back to the original question. Since mere "gaskets" won't make this junker work, from an economic POV, would you continue to put money into it or sell it and take your chances with still another clap trap?
I looked this up for a base line to analyze the question. It's from Kelly Blue book.
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More Photos Condition Value
Selected Equipment Change Equipment
Standard
Air Conditioning Tilt Wheel Dual Front Air Bags
Power Steering Cruise Control Moon Roof
Power Windows AM/FM Stereo
Power Door Locks Cassette
Blue Book Trade-In Value
Trade-in Value is what consumers can expect to receive from a dealer for a trade-in vehicle assuming an accurate appraisal of condition. This value will likely be less than the Private Party Value because the reselling dealer incurs the cost of safety inspections, reconditioning and other costs of doing business.
Vehicle Condition Ratings Check Vehicle Title History Excellent
$2,500
"Excellent" condition means that the vehicle looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning. This vehicle has never had any paint or body work and is free of rust. The vehicle has a clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection. The engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects. The vehicle also has complete and verifiable service records. Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category.
Good
$2,140
"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. This vehicle has a clean title history, the paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. There should be little or no rust on this vehicle. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail. Most consumer owned vehicles fall into this category.
Fair
$1,560
"Fair" condition means that the vehicle has some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition. This vehicle has a clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional. The tires may need to be replaced. There may be some repairable rust damage.
Poor
N/A
"Poor" condition means that the vehicle has severe mechanical and/or cosmetic defects and is in poor running condition. The vehicle may have problems that cannot be readily fixed such as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body. A vehicle with a branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage is considered "poor." A vehicle in poor condition may require an independent appraisal to determine its value. Kelley Blue Book does not attempt to report a value on a "poor" vehicle because the value of cars in this category varies greatly.
* Georgia 4/8/2007
Based on the above, not knowing the equiptment package, the $2700 you already spent was more than a down the line, dealer retail price.
There is no easy answer. While the common reasoning is to keep and fix, the values liste above, tell me to sell, or park. Cause even selling for parts, you may not recoup the $2700.
The other common wisdom is to not throw good money after bad.
But now the question goes to are you able to get into something considering your wherewithall. That part would be best known to you.
Try your best to steer clear of the tote the note thieves.
Hope that helps
CDJ _________________ A ship in a harbor is safe, but that is not what they are made for.
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